Karren and I left home late that hot July day after performing an act of community service for a friend in need. We didn't leave until 3 PM so my goal was simply to get out of Dodge asap. The first night we opted for accommodations in St. George, Utah, at the local Super 8 Motel. It proved a wise choice, as the temperatures had risen dramatically with every foot lost in elevation as we descended out of the Colorado Plateau. By the time we reached Las Vegas, NV it was 106 degrees in the shade. People actually live there! The city is a weird oasis of concrete and electricity in a desolate void of sand and mesquite. We didn't stop and couldn't wait until we reached our first destination: The house of Sarah and Kevin Hopkins in Manhattan Beach, CA. Driving across Los Angeles was like a bad dream - just when you think you have reached the Pacific Ocean, there is yet another freeway to navigate. I have never seen so much development across a flat landscape. It is really odd to see such a large metropolis lacking vertical buildings.
Anyway, we arrived there to find the Hopkins' house was sandwiched in between other monstrosities, lost in a maze of development and sprawl. They are situated not quite three blocks from the beach, and the area actually has a slight resort feel to it, even though it is like living in the middle of a file cabinet. The salt air and humidity brings the beach into the home with its mild climate. Temps never got above 80 degrees, yet inland just 5 miles it was brutal. Here's a view of their period beach cabana, which has a period flavor. I would like to have seen it back in the day...
It is amazing that real estate there is priced by the square inch, not foot! Their place is deceptive in that it fills the entire lot from front to rear, road to alley, and features a wonderful courtyard. Their house brings me back to memories of beach houses on the Outer Bank of NC, until I walk out the front door and see the other stucco high rises that predominate the hillside. Here's a view from their front porch down to the water:
And watch where you step! The density of people is only rivaled by the density of dogs. Why do people have so many pets in such close quarters? I'll never understand the need for urban dog or (insert favorite pet here) worship, especially when there is no place for the critters to roam, bark, defecate, or otherwise antagonize others in high density living. I love dogs, but giant ones in the city? Really?! End of irresponsible pet owners rant.
After three glorious days of visiting Kevin and Sarah, we steered ourselves onto the drought ridden highways of California toward Sequioa National Park, the first stop in our NP tour. Sequoia is lovely and the roads are sometimes impossibly narrow, but they do not quite rival Mesa Verde in terror factor. The trees are magnificent.
It was there that we first began to notice the haze that was settling over the high Sierras. SMOKE!
Evidently there was a complex of fires burning in several places. I inquired as to where these fires were at the Sequoia NP visitors center. Yosemite!?! Why that's on our itinerary! Great... how bad can it be? Resolved to the situation being what it would be regardless, we continued our trek.
The trees of the sequoias are massive. The human brain does not register the immensity until hours have gone by. Then it really has an impact; these things are as big as ships! The trunks easily block half of your vista and have a feeling of ancientness and antiquity reflecting their age. After a while one begins to pick out the younger members of the species apart from "regular" pines and cedars.
Yosemite was mostly shrouded in smoke. Needless to say the views were not what we had anticipated, however we managed to find some clear camping above 8000 ft. This is the domain of the bears. These critters have their way with anyone foolish enough not to heed the warnings, which are pervasive throughout the parks. One night I woke to the sounds of an entire section of the campground being pillaged by ursa major and minor. The morning light revealed the signs of the struggle between creature and man. Total destruction of coolers and everything else that smelled of food that was not locked up in the bear boxes (provided). City dwellers - MEH!
Our time in Yosemite was tempered by the incredible press of crowds and vehicles. I will not attempt to enter the valley again in this lifetime, but will probably revisit the Tioga Pass area. Lake Tenaya is pristine and spellbinding. The entire eastern area of the pass is spectacular. So there we are, driving along in barely 60 degree temps and Karren says, "Stop the truck!" Within minutes she is daring me to take the plunge. You know a glacier feeds that pond don't you? A whole new meaning to the word "cold."
We left the high country to descend into Mono Lake and Nevada. That state is a jewel. I think most probably see Nevada as a barren wasteland but I see the solitude as a gift. Mountains that no one is climbing, high lakes that see few visitors and roads that beg for traffic.
We ended up staying the next night on top of a mountain near the north end of Nevada at Angel Lake, a nat'l forest campground. The weather was windy and wet, and the mosquitos were fierce, so we ducked into the tent quickly for the sanctuary. This CG was above 9000 feet and the road up is not for the faint of heart either. I had to take a five minute break on the way up to get my breathing squared away because it rose so rapidly from the desert floor below.
The next day saw us taking in the sights at the Golden Spike National Monument in Promontory, Utah. A wonderful exhibit and two actually working steam locomotives made the visit memorable. Then home. Trying to get the blog moving so on to the next post!
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